Biryani and Thick-Cut Spicy Pumpkin: Flavorful Indian-Inspired Pumpkin Dishes

This marks pumpkin season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the spiced dishes and other comfort food of autumn. Today's Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the combination of fresh ginger, chilli and palm sugar lends it a wonderful flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, on the other hand, is packed with aromatic spices, long-grain rice and ghee, which give so much more taste to the strata of rice and produce.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes starts on early October, so what better way to celebrate than with a rich, comforting, single-pot biryani? If you like, make the spiced vegetable mixture element ahead of time and assemble all components on the occasion you plan to eat.

Prep 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Yields 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

First make the curry base. Melt the ghee in a sizable, thick-bottomed pot on a medium heat, incorporate the cumin seeds, bay leaves and clove spices, and fry for a brief moment. Add the onion slices and cook, stirring often, for about half an hour, until softened. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a plate and set aside (for later use during the layering).

Add the green chillies and ginger to the onions in pan, fry for a brief period, then mix in the tomato puree, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander, and sauté for a short while. Turn down to a low heat, stir in the yogurt and simmer for a couple of minutes.

Add the squash and mushrooms, stir to coat in the spice mixture, then cook for several minutes. Add the stock or water, and season to taste. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat, cover and simmer for 18-20 minutes, mixing midway to ensure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pot. Sprinkle with fresh cilantro, then take off the heat.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the rice, then place it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay leaves, cardamom pods and seasoning. Heat to boiling, simmer for 10-12 minutes, until partially cooked, then strain.

For assembling the layered dish, put a spoonful of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Spoon half the spiced vegetables, then top that with half the cooked grains. Sprinkle half the saffron water, ginger, mint leaves, ground cardamom and spice blend, then top with the reserved fried onions. Layer with the remaining curry mixture, then spoon on the remaining rice. Top with the remaining clarified butter, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala.

Cover with parchment, place lid securely, then cook on the center rack of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas soak into the rice. Take out of the heat, leave to rest, still covered, for several minutes, then remove the lid and present with yogurt sauce and fresh salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Squash with Spice Blend Sauté)

The Hindi term "achari" describes flavouring a preparation using pickling spices, and the mix contains mustard seeds, fennel, fenugreek, cumin, hing and kalonji, but they're not used only in preserved foods. This mixture also appears in all manner of spiced dishes and sautéed preparations, like this recipe.

Prep 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard seeds, fenugreek and fennel seeds in a spice grinder, crush coarsely, then reserve. Put the cooking oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a moderate flame. Introduce the ground spices and the hing, and fry, mixing, for a few seconds. Add the chopped ginger, cook for a short while, then stir in the pumpkin pieces, chili powder and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for five minutes more.

Pour a small amount water to the pan, salt with salt to taste and bring to a boil. Place lid, turn down the flame, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, stirring once halfway. Mix in the jaggery, crushing some of the pieces a little, then add the dried mango, mix thoroughly and present hot with chapatis or leavened bread.