This celebratory, ice-cold sweet chestnut pudding is often credited to the renowned 1800s culinary master the chef Carême, who admitted the fact that this luxurious creation originated as from Monsieur Mony, chef for the diplomat Count Nesselrode. Traditionally, it was paired with hot, boozy custard, but it's sufficient as it is. It forms a fabulous holiday centerpiece.
Prep 15 min
Soak Overnight
Cook 20 min
Freeze 2 hr+
Serves 6
125g currants, or alternatively raisins or golden raisins
50g good-quality candied citrus peel, minced
75ml maraschino liqueur, or other sweet alcohol you prefer (as noted later)
1 vanilla pod, halved lengthwise, or 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
600ml heavy cream
4 egg yolks
50g superfine sugar
45g almond flakes
125g whole peeled cooked chestnuts, or chestnut paste
Transfer the currants and peel and candied peel in a bowl. The historic recipe called for contained a mix of currants and raisins (however other vine fruit, or indeed any other minced dried fruit you prefer, can be used), in addition to candied citron peel, the rind from a particular citrus fruit. Specialty peel is found on the internet, just like other candied peels which are much better compared to the typical tough, oily pieces available at shops.
Add the liqueur: maraschino, an Italian cherry spirit, was the traditional selection, but alternate versions use triple sec, cognac and noyau, a nutty liqueur derived from apricot kernels, or a combination of maraschino with full-bodied rum. Madeira wine, sherry, port, etc, would also be suitable, also. Soak the dried fruit mixture for a couple of hours, or overnight.
An hour or so before you begin, cut the vanilla pod lengthwise and use a knife's edge to extract the vanilla caviar. Place these seeds and the bean pod in a small saucepan along with the whipping cream, warm gently just to a gentle simmer, and then remove from the stove allowing it to flavor. (In case of using vanilla extract, stir in using it right away.)
Set the egg yolks within a bowl that can withstand heat near the hob (set aside and freeze the egg whites for making drinks or meringues). Carefully heat again the infused cream to reach a simmer. In the meantime, mix the sugar with the yolks (should you possess a preference for sweeter desserts, consider to add more the amount of caster sugar to seventy-five grams).
Lift the vanilla bean pod out of the cream, next vigorously whisk the simmering liquid with the egg yolk bowl. Pour back to the pan, set it on a gentle heat and stir, stirring constantly, till the custard has thickened sufficiently so that a distinct line remains across it on the underside of a spatula. Put the saucepan in a sink of cold water to cool down.
At this stage, toast the almonds over dry heat until they become lightly toasted. In the case of peeled chestnuts, pulse them using a food processor, or pound to a crumb using a pestle.
Remove the liquid from the fruit, mix the alcohol with the chestnut powder and blend again till smooth mixture (should the mixture be too thick, mix in a little of the egg mixture to thin it out). When using pre-made chestnut puree, simply mix with the spirit.
Spoon the boozy chestnut paste into a big basin, next bit by bit whisk into it the vanilla custard till well combined. Churn in an ice cream churner until it reaches a fairly thick consistency. As an option, spoon to a robust container suitable for freezing, seal with a lid and chill for an hour, then use electric beaters or a wooden spoon to stir vigorously. Do this again approximately every 30 minutes until thickened and almost set.
After the ice-cream is thick and semi-frozen, fold the soaked and drained fruit and almonds into it so that they are thoroughly incorporated. Line a 1.1-litre mould or loaf tin with clingfilm and spoon the mixture inside (or use a buttered decorative mould).
Press down firmly then fold over the plastic wrap over the top to cover.
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